Sweet November

Man, this November has been great. Just day after day of good surf. Today was really fun, the waves would stand up, but then back off a bit down the line...you could make most of them by taking a high line a just racing the lip. Here's a pic of me on a traditional board, my 6'10" McCrystal Discgo; when it reaches head high I tend to leave the wood boards in the car. Only four of us out today, more salmon fishermen than surfers...pretty sketchy avoiding the lines in the water, and even just walking back up the beach, but super good fun...best November ever!